Exploring a different side of Bali at Umana

Uma Beach House.

Bali has been a playground for Aussies for decades.

If you’re after an affordable holiday, you visit Bali.

If you want some sun, surf and a side of culture, you visit Bali.

If you want to get inked, drink beer and cruise around on a motorbike, you visit Bali.

I’ve visited over 20 countries in my lifetime, but this Indonesian paradise has never been high on my list because of its proximity and the fact that bloody everyone goes to Bali!

I also had a preconceived notion of what Bali would be like through chatting with mates and seeing things online and in the media, and the Bali scene just didn’t appeal to me.

Inside one of the incredible bedrooms.

But little did I know that there was a slice of Bali where it’s not overrun by Aussie tourists and suspect bars, and where you’re not going to be pestered by people trying to sell you fake football jerseys or temporary tattoos out of a raggedy A4 display folder.

Recently, I had the unbelievable opportunity to spend a few nights at Umana Bali, a luxurious 5-star resort perched atop the magnificent limestone cliffs of Ungasan amidst the verdant landscape on the southernmost tip of the island.

I popped my Bali cherry at the ripe old age of 38, and boy was it worth the wait!
Originally opened in 2010, the property underwent a multimillion-dollar transformation and rebranded as Umana Bali in November 2023, becoming the first LXR Hotels & Resorts property in south-east Asia, managed by Hilton.

The resort spans 10 hectares and is designed to reflect Bali’s cultural heritage, particularly the Tri Hita Karana philosophy, which emphasises harmony among humans, nature and the divine.

The resort’s design draws inspiration from Bali’s traditional rice paddy fields, with its luxurious villas arranged in cascading terraces to maximise panoramic ocean or garden views.

The main pool at Umana Bali.

Umana Bali offers 72 expansive villas, each with a private infinity-edge pool, outdoor hot tub, indoor and outdoor rain showers, and a marble sunken bath.
Villas come in one-, two-, or three-bedroom configurations, catering to couples, families or multigenerational groups.

I’ll never forget the moment when I walked into my huge ocean view villa. Never had I stayed in something so epic and so luxurious. It was my own private tropical oasis.

The inside of the villa combined modern elegance with Balinese touches, and it had its mod cons too including a pair of Smart TVs, a coffee machine, wine cabinet, temperature control, mood lighting and toilets (yes, toilets) that had more features than my brand-new car!

This villa was what I would imagine the rich and famous stay in whenever they head abroad.

Umana Bali’s lobby at night.

Umana Bali is more than a hotel, it’s a destination. There’s really no reason for you to leave the property if you don’t have to because everything is at your fingertips.

The resort has various dining options: Commune, an all-day restaurant offering international and south-east Asian cuisine; Oliverra, a romantic cliffside restaurant serving Mediterranean specialties with local Balinese produce; Pad Pool Bar, a semi outdoor venue with light bites and cocktails; MER Lounge, which offers expertly crafted coffee, grab-and-go items and wine tasting; and the trendy Uma Beach House, a surfside beach club at nearby Melasti Beach for guests to enjoy day and night.

But if you prefer to stay in your lavish villa and dine, Umana Bali has an extensive room service menu and serves a delicious and impressive Floating Breakfast, which will make your friends on Instagram very jealous.

Umana Bali also has your wellness activities covered. The Lohma Spa – where I enjoyed a much-needed full body Balinese massage – has a sauna, steam room, and hot and cold tubs. Plus, the property’s state-of-the-art fitness centre was easily the best hotel gymnasium I’ve ever worked out in, and I was even able to partake in my first-ever yoga class!

If you’re wondering how you get around this hilly property, wonder no more! All you have to do is dial reception and a buggy will arrive at your door to take you wherever you want.

Before our Soul Blessing.

The bespoke service at Umana Bali is second to none and it’s the friendly, knowledgeable and accommodating people that work here that make this place what it is.

Each guest is assigned a Curator of Guest Experiences to personalise their stay, ensuring authentic and tailored activities. My curator was named Bisma and he was contactable via WhatsApp whenever I needed something during my stay – no matter how big or small.

Umana Bali stands out for its curated experiences that connect guests with Balinese culture and some of the things they were able to organise for me were a Balinese Cooking Class with Commune’s experienced (and very patient) chef, Widia; the lovely Sri took me on a guided Village Walk to some local temples and markets; and I also received a Soul Blessing inside a cliffside cave temple by a Balinese priest in what was truly one of the most memorable and spiritual experiences of my life.

If you’re keen on checking out the more touristy side of Bali and leave the resort for the afternoon, your curator can organise that as well with an affordable private car service.

My outstanding driver named Nova took me to Kuta Beach, Legian Beach, Nusa Dua, Jimbaren Bay and the spectacular Uluwatu Temple – all fine and fascinating places to visit, but let me tell you, I couldn’t wait to return to the comforts of the resort after just a few hours out in the wild.

Balinese Cooking Class.

The next time you have Bali on your mind for a quick getaway or perhaps a special occasion such as a destination wedding or honeymoon, consider this luxurious and untapped piece of paradise.

No, Umana Bali isn’t in everyone’s price range, but believe me when I say, it’s worth every single penny and you will be looked after like an A-lister from the moment you land at Denpasar to the moment you take-off.

Umana Bali IS Bali, but not as you know it!

For more information or to book your stay, visit http://www.umanabali.com or @umanabali on Instagram.

Bisma and Nathan.

The writer stayed as a guest of Umana Bali.

Nathan Taylor

Nathan Taylor is the Weekender's Deputy Editor and Senior Sports Writer. He also compiles the weekly Chatter on the Box TV column. Nathan is an award-winning journalist, who has worked at the Weekender for a decade.

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