Despite its growing popularity – particularly amongst the bachelor and bachelorette party brigade – Nashville isn’t necessarily on the must-do list of travellers to the United States.
But amidst a country music resurgence and the ever-growing party vibes it generates, ‘music city’ is back in a big way – no longer just as a destination for die-hard Johnny Cash or Dolly Parton fans, but for a whole new generation experiencing ‘three chords and the truth’.
A warning first up: Nashville is busy these days, especially on a Friday and Saturday night. Which is why arriving on a Monday afternoon turned out to be a blessing in disguise of sorts.
As we hit the bars of Broadway – the main tourist hot spot, full of live music venues – it was a little quieter than you’d find it on a weekend, but certainly not a ghost town. Indeed Nashville is pumping with decent numbers and great music seven days a week, from late morning through to the wee hours of the next day.
For anyone going to enjoy the live music and soak up the atmosphere of the bars, I’d definitely advise getting in at least one early or mid-week night out – it almost lets you experience it all a little better, and you avoid that bachelorette crowd!
Most of the live music venues are country-based, but you’ll find a few that aren’t specific to the genre – including Kid Rock’s Big Honky Tonk and Jon Bon Jovi’s bar.
But when in Rome, right?
There’s a few country bars that are a must on Broadway: Tootsies, which first opened in 1960 and offers three levels of live music in an unmissable purple building, is a particular favourite.
It stands next to Robert’s Western World, another must-visit especially if you’re a fan of older country music and not the modern, pop-leaning style.
The larger Chief’s, which backing from country music superstar Eric Church, is a relatively new addition on Broadway and offers terrific views from its rooftop, while both Luke’s 32 Bridge and Aldean’s both offer terrific music, food and drinks menus.
Morgan Wallen’s This Bar, one of the newer Broadway venues, was where we found ourselves dancing and signing into the early hours of Tuesday morning (thanks largely to Nicole Summerlyn, an emerging artist who happened to be performing that night), while Show Pony provided a unique atmosphere, plenty of fun and some of Broadway’s cheapest drinks.
Broadway is big, but not that big – you can easily bar hop and let the night take you away, so don’t be too pre-planned here.
Away from the bars, it’s impossible not to get caught up in the history of Nashville and its importance on the American and international music scenes.
A visit to the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum is a great way to learn about how Nashville became the home of country, and I’d highly recommend adding the Studio B tour – a short bus ride to an iconic recording studio where the likes of Elvis Presley and Dolly Parton recorded some of their biggest hits.
About 20 minutes from the centre of town you’ll find the Grand Ole Opry, which for the last 100 years has been the mother church of country music. If you play the Opry stage, you’ve made it in Nashville – and the history of this concept – originally a radio show, now a live music phenomenon – is extraordinary.
If you can get yourself tickets to a show, don’t second guess it – just buy them! But regardless, make sure you do the backstage tour, which offers excellent insight into a country music institution.
Another country music icon is the Bluebird Cafe, which first opened in the early 1980s but had a huge resurgence in popularity a few years back due to its regular appearances on the hit TV show ‘Nashville’.
Getting a ticket to this live show – generally featuring both established and emerging songwriters, along with surprise guests – is tough work. They go on sale a week before the show, which means an early alarm for us here in Australia.
Some limited tickets are made available at the door, but line up early!
Food is another big part of the Nashville scene, and there’s so much to choose from. You’ll find famous Nashville hot chicken pretty much anywhere, but Hattie B’s – despite being a chain – was by far our favourite.
If you like Mexican, make sure you book in for Bakersfield – a jug of margarita to kick things off, and then some of the most awesome authentic Mexican food you’ll ever have.
As for BBQ? You can’t go past Martin’s BBQ Joint, which has a few locations in Nashville.
Ask a Nashville local what to do in Nashville and they’ll tell you to avoid the above. It’s kind of like asking a Sydneysider if they’ve climbed the Harbour Bridge recently.
And of course, there’s some awesome things to do outside of the tourist hot spots in Nashville – visit Printer’s Alley and the Gulch region, for instance – but don’t be swayed by a local telling you to avoid Broadway.
It’s like nothing you’ve experienced before, and if you’re a country music fan – you’ll be in heaven. It’s a reminder of what Sydney lost when it went poker machine crazy.
Nashville is getting a little expensive as it cashes in on the country music boom and becoming a party hot spot, but it is well worth visiting on your next American trip – both for its extraordinary music scene and it’s special history, much of it retained for new generations to enjoy.
Troy Dodds
Troy Dodds is the Weekender's Managing Editor and Breaking News Reporter. He has more than 20 years experience as a journalist, working with some of Australia's leading media organisations. In 2023, he was named Editor of the Year at the Mumbrella Publish Awards.